Теория мужской моды

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Статьи о мужской моде: история возникновения элементов одежды, основная терминология и др.

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Жилеты:
Разница между vest и waistcoat
https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/men-vest-waistcoat-guide/

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Как сочетать пиджак и брюки от разных костюмов (spezzato):

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/the-spezzato-an-art-suitable-for-everyone/

The broken suit, or spezzato, suit has this name because it identifies the desire to break the chromatic harmony of the outfit by wearing different colors.
Wearing two shades of the same color is not a broken suit: technically it is tone on tone.
Tone-on-tone is very difficult to master: the risk of a combination of unpleasant shades is always around the corner. When in doubt, therefore, always break with conviction.

If daring too little with colors is a mistake, daring too much is also a mistake. We want to avoid the unconvincing tone on tone but also the harlequin effect of a chromatic soup.
Better therefore limit yourself to 3, maximum 4 colors for your outfit, preferring the classics: blue, beige, gray, white to always be on the safe side.

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Чем отличаются пиджак и блейзер (jacket и blazer):

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/whats-the-difference-between-a-jacket-and-a-blazer/

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Разница между формальными костюмами:
The difference between suits, tuxedos, morning suits and tailcoats

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/the-difference-between-suits-tuxedos-morning-suits-and-tailcoats/

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Откуда появились пуговицы на рукаве пиджака?

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/what-are-the-buttons-on-the-jacket-sleeve-for/

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Рукав рубашки

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/how-to-choose-a-shirt-cuff-style/

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Складки на брюках

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/pleated-or-not-pants-guide/

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Как сочетать носки с обувью и брюками

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/often-last-but-not-least-the-socks/

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Воротник рубашки

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/custom-dress-shirt-guide-collar-styles/

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Платок

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/a-secret-of-elegance-in-your-pocket/

The pocket handkerchief is a chromatic accent, a distinctive sign, an accessory quirk.
It must stand out from the rest of the outfit, especially the tie: choose the right pocket square and of the same color or pattern of your tie.
The same rule also applies to pocket square and shirt, with the sole exception of the classic combination of white pocket square and white shirt.

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Бабочка

https://www.lanieri.com/en/bowties

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Плакет рубашки

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/sartorial-details-of-the-shirt-whats-the-placket/

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Пальто

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/how-to-choose-a-mens-coat/

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Sfumatura
Перетекание одного цвета одежды о края в другой цвет на противоположном краю.
Термин возник в Италии при выжимании цитрусовых.

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Пять типов телосложения:

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/which-mens-trousers-to-choose-according-to-your-body-shape/

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Рубашка с карманом и без:

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/the-shirt-in-the-office-a-few-simple-rules/

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Воротник пиджака:

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/proportions-of-elegance-lapels-and-collars/

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Костюм из ткани соларо.
Носится целиком, пиджак и брюки, костюм не разбивается на части.

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/the-solaro-suit-tale-of-a-myth/

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Ткань хопсак

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/hopsack-fabric/

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Пуговицы на пиджаке, какие застегивать

Пиджак с одинарным рядом пуговиц (single-breasted jacket), если вы сидите, расстегнут.
Если вы стоите, на пиджаке из двух пуговиц верхняя пуговица застегнута, нижняя расстегнута.
Если вы стоите, на пиджаке из трех пуговиц средняя пуговица всегда застегнута, нижняя всегда расстегнута, верхняя пуговица может быть расстегнута или застегнута.

Пиджак с двойным рядом пуговиц (double-breasted jacket) всегда должен быть полностью застегнут, сидите вы или стоите.

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Материал рубашек

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/a-guide-to-mens-dress-shirt-weaves/

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Детали брюк

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/a-guide-to-made-to-measure-trousers/

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Четыре способа завязать зимний шарф

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/stylish-ways-for-men-to-tie-a-scarf/

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Стрелки на брюках

Формальные элегантные брюки выглаживаются со стрелками по центру.
Брюки спортивного типа, такие как чинос, не выглаживаются со стрелкой для более повседневного вида.

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Длина брюк

First of all, your body type: if you are rather thin and slim, you can wear a shorter and more tight on the ankles pair of trousers. They can even reach the height of the malleolus, leaving a few inches of socks in plain sight. Needless to say that this is a bold solution which meet strictly business dress codes, unless you are in a position to dictate the dress code of your office! In addition, you have to pay particular attention to the color your socks: since they will always be in view they must harmonize with the lower part of your body (shoes, pants and belt). As with all things in life, do not overdo! If your pants are too short, someone might ask you if you’ve grown up in them! If you’re more short-limbed, shorter trousers are absolutely not recommended, as they can have the opposite effect of shorten your legs furthermore. You may prefer pants that, while standing, fully cover the socks and reach the height of your heels.

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Свитер

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/roll-neck-vs-turtle-neck-the-sweater-to-wear-under-the-suit/

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Носки

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/often-last-but-not-least-the-socks/

Элегантная обувь носится с носками.

Белые носки

Надевают в случае спортивной одежды или если полностью белый образ.
В остальных случаях не надевают из-за невозможности гармонично сочетать в образе.

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Одежда из вельвета, с чем носить

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/3-ways-to-wear-and-match-corduroy/

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Уход за рубашками no iron

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/no-iron-shirts-easy-care/

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Чистка костюма

https://www.lanieri.com/blog/en/proper-suit-care-5-tips-tricks/